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Winter 2004 / Spring 2005 Vineyard Report Carpineto: Not just the wine is excellent
Everyone is ready on the Carpineto estate at Chianciano to proceed with the planting of various white varieties in six hectares (14.8 acres) of vineyards. The vineyard project should have been completed last year but setting out of the vines was delayed due to unfavorable weather conditions. The varieties selected are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Bianco, Grechetto and, in much smaller measure, Manzoni 6-0-13. The estate’s intention is to produce dessert wines in addition to immediately drinkable whites.
The Appodiati dell’Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva di Toscana Favorable seasonal conditions assured an abundant harvest of olives and the quality has been rated excellent. A substantial crop was expected but the final result was surprising, more than double the average harvest. Remarkably, quality was not prejudiced by the quantity of the olives, which were fully ripe at harvest. As a result, the oil extracted from them was extraordinarily good.
In addition, the adoption of some innovative technical devices in the extraction phase contributed without doubt to the outstanding results. Temperatures were maintained constant at 19-23° C. (66-73° F.) throughout all phases of processing, from the bruising of the olives (picked during the day) to decantation of the oil and the preparation of the finished product. Close attention is paid to kneading during which the temperature never rises above 20° C. In this phase, the oil separates from the solids and it is an extremely delicate moment. Excessive heat can cause oxidation of an enzymatic character that can transform the “primitive” polyphenols, which originate in the fruit itself, and render them less efficacious.
In addition, Carpineto has introduced something that was never done in the past, filtration of the oil through ultra-pure hydrophilic cotton as soon as it has been produced. The aim is to separate immediately the impurities and water contained in the oil. The latter, especially, causes numerous problems in preserving the oil, like the formation of disagreeable odors and flavors ending with the product becoming rancid.
The more attentive and refined processing protocol adopted this year has enormously reduced yield to a rate varying from 10 to 13%—that is, 10-13 kilos (22-28.6 pounds) of oil obtained from 100 kilos of olives. This has enabled the estate to secure a product that is richer in secondary aromatic substances and in polyphenols that are capable of preserving at greater length the principal component of the oil, the fatty substance. Never as in this year has the excellence of the oils obtained on the Tuscan estate reflected so much credit on the terroir. That has led the estate to bottle the oils separately, each coming from a different zone.
New garb that is more imposing and in harmony with the levels of quality of the oils has been created. An elegant yet practical bottle has been adopted. It has a spout that prevents drips and the glass is a dark green, which shields the oil from the light. And light harms oil. This new apparel will be retained in the future.
Appodiato di Gavorrano - Oliveto Il Picciolo This oil is made through cold pressing of olives harvested by hand in our Maremma orchards in Grosseto province. The varieties are Frantoio (90%), Leccino and Pendolino (5%) and Moraiolo (5%).
This product is for those who enjoy the pronounced character of the best Tuscan oils with their green color and intense, full and complex bouquet with hints of fresh grass and a long and persistent finish. Drizzle on fresh pasta, tomatoes and typical Tuscan dishes like ribollita or zuppe di legumi.
Appodiato di Gaville - Oliveto Sillano This oil is made from cold-pressed olives collected by hand in our ancient orchards situated in the upper Arno Valley in the province of Florence on the boundary of Chianti Classico. The following varieties are used: Frantoio (80%), Leccino and Pendolino (10%) and Moraiolo (10%). It is an oil for those who appreciate the strong connotations of the best Tuscan products. It has a green color with an intense, aromatic, spicy, full and complex bouquet with a long and persistent finish. It complements bruschetta al pomodoro, fish carpaccio, green salads and pinzimoni di verdure.
Appodiato di Chianciano and Montepulciano - Oliveto delle Simbarde This oil is produced from cold-pressed olives picked by hand in ancient orchards located on our estate in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano zone in Siena province. The following varieties are used Frantoio (70%), Moraiolo, Leccino and Pendolino (30%). It is an oil for those who enjoy the pronounced sensations of the best Tuscan products. It features a green color and a delicate, spicy, full and complex bouquet with a long and persistent finish. It accompanies bread, fresh cheeses, meat carpaccio and typical fishes of the Val di Chiana, like bistecca alla fiorentina and panzanella.
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